HALIBUT COVE -- Mornings are the best in Halibut Cove. Here at the tip of Alaska's Kenai Peninsula, sunrise casts a pink hue, and the spruce-topped ridge of Ismailof Island across the way is reflected in the cove as if by a mirror. A resident gray-headed seal makes a lazy pass in the waters below. And, best of all, the only sounds are of a few gulls and a lone loon -- no internal-combustion engines, no freeway hum, no beep-beep of your neighbor's car alarm being deactivated and no infernal leaf blowers.

Serenity is the greatest attribute of this corner of Alaska. The little community of about 100 lies across Kachemak Bay from Homer, and backs up to the 400,000 acres of wilderness that is Kachemak Bay State Park. The only way to get here is on something that floats -- there are no roads or vehicles, just docks and boardwalks.

Halibut Cove provides a heavenly disconnect for city-dwellers. A number of guest lodges string out along this shore of the peninsula, and over a stay of three days or so, guests may hike to a glacier, paddle kayaks, embark on a wildlife cruise or fishing expedition, or maybe sit with a book in a room warmed by a wood-burning stove, gazing periodically across the pristine waters.

Day trips are possible, too. A ferry from Homer makes twice-daily trips during the summer, bringing people over for lunch or dinner, a stroll along the boardwalk to a handful of art galleries, or a short hike to the top of the island.

The area was a saltry for a bustling herring industry in the early 1900s, but that quickly played out. Eventually, an artists' colony took root, as the peace and beauty of the region compelled a handful of residents to live here year-round.

We got comfortable last summer at the Quiet Place Lodge, which has all the feel of a Swiss Family Robinson retreat, though with a nautical theme. Harmon and Pauli Hall live here with their boys during the warm months, and rent out a few cabins for all-inclusive stays of at least three nights. They bought the place in 1995 and conducted more of a reconstruction than a renovation, and the accommodations have been lovingly turned out.

Decks and staircases climb a steep slope, and three of the cabins are on pilings at the water's edge. Weathered fishing gear -- nets, floats, buoys and tackle -- is artfully displayed on the decks, while flower boxes burst with blooms. Interiors are tastefully decorated with Americana antiques.

Soon after arriving, we encountered Harmon hauling on a rope alongside his boat dock. He brought up a net "lantern" in which he cultivates his own oysters. He pulled out a handful of the irregularly shaped mollusks and said, "We'll have these this evening. I put them on the grill until they smile. You can't get any fresher than that."

Meals at the lodge have other home-grown features. Breakfast featured eggs from the chicken coop -- though Harmon noted with consternation that a mink had been getting in there lately and killing the chickens (he kept a loaded .22 handy in hopes of eliminating the threat). The halibut fishing is so plentiful here that they actually chop the stuff up and make halibut salad for sandwiches at lunch. There is also abundant sockeye salmon for dinner. And jam made from the raspberries of a wild bramble to spread on toast.

We looked into a number of lodges before booking, and were drawn to this one because when they say all-inclusive, they really mean it. Another lodge charged extra for kayaking ($200 per person), a gallery tour and lunch ($200), a wildlife cruise ($200) and fishing ($225), in addition to a hefty American plan rate.

The Halls include everything in their price of $1,440 per person for a stay of three nights and four days: boat transportation to and from Homer, wildlife and/or fishing cruises, all meals, dinner off the menu at the surprisingly good Saltry Restaurant in Halibut Cove, water taxis, boat shuttles to the island, and wine and beer and bottled water at the lodge.

One of the highlights of our stay was a hike to nearby Grewingk Glacier. A water taxi ferried us to a gravel beach where the trailhead is, and soon we were tramping through a primeval landscape in the state park, following a mossy, root-veined trail that was spongy beneath our feet. It would have been a 4.7-mile hike if we'd thought to bring the map from the lodge library, but a detour owing to confusion lengthened it by two more miles. That gave us a sweeping overview of the gray river formed by the glacier runoff, though.

Black bears are common here, but because there are no salmon in the glacial river, there is little danger of an encounter with one of Alaska's ferocious brown bears (a cousin of the grizzly found in the lower 48). Still, a sign at the trailhead warned of the presence of a black female bear and her two cubs, and it was disconcerting to walk along the narrow trail through thick forest and see bear tracks in the mud and scat periodically. We found ourselves jumping at each chatter of a squirrel.

The unnecessary detour gave us only a little time at the glacier -- the water taxi operator had made arrangements to meet us at another cove at a particular time -- but we gazed in wonder at ice that looked like a spill of dirty whipped cream between two mountain peaks. In the lake at its foot were great chunks of ice, tinged in blue.

Another afternoon was spent poking among the art galleries of quaint little Halibut Cove, including that of Diana Tillion, a matriarch of Ismailof Island who harvests ink from octopuses and paints with it using watercolor technique.

In all the galleries -- notably the Experience -- idyllic scenes of the cove could be found in every medium. The inspiration is understandable given the picturesque cottages, the spruce forests, and the soaring, snow-crested summits of the Kenai Mountains to the east. We beheld all of this on a short hike to the ridge that forms the island's spine.

The waters of Kachemak Bay are also rich with wildlife, but sometimes a cruel dynamic comes into play for visitors to Alaska: It seems you're continually hearing about remarkable experiences that occurred, oh, just a day or two ago -- pods of breaching humpback whales, female otters cradling babies on their stomachs next to the boat, eagles in flight with salmon in their talons. It unrealistically lifts your expectations, and ours were soaring as the Halls took us on a wildlife cruise.

The highlight of the outing was floating up to aptly named Gull Island right about the time a bald eagle soared in for a landing. The shrieking of the gulls and cormorants was terrific, and there wasn't a bird within 100 yards of that eagle when it perched to rest.

Beyond that, however, we saw otters only from considerable distances, spotted colorful puffins a good deal off, and caught the briefest glimpse of a black bear foraging on a beach before it bolted into the forest. There wasn't a single whale or whale spout to be seen.

Neither did I see much one day while paddling a kayak in and around Halibut Cove, though because the tide was up, it was fun to be able to glide under the natural rock arch at the mouth of the cove.

The vantage point of the lodge provided a few memorable experiences, though. Each morning at breakfast we would look through a sighting scope at two juvenile bald eagles in a nest, working up the courage to test their wings in flight. In the cove below, we routinely saw otters and the gray-headed seal.

In fact, even with all the outdoor activities, one of our favorite diversions was to relax in the afternoon in the lodge library, with its wood-burning stove, 8-foot leather couch, rocking chair, generous supply of books on Alaska lore and picture windows overlooking the cove.

If only we could have bottled that serenity. It didn't extend into the evenings, unfortunately. The Quiet Place is situated directly across the cove from the Saltry, the only public hangout for miles.

You wouldn't think the evening's singer would need to have his voice and guitar amplified for a dozen patrons, but he does. And, on our last night here, this was the scene of a rollicking community party, with dance music blaring into the wee hours. The Halls, who pour a lot of energy into their hospitality, were mortified, and refused to charge us for one night of our stay. Still, if total solitude is desired, you might want to consider one of the more remotely sited lodges on this side of Kachemak Bay.

We try to forget that night, and instead reflect on the more peaceful evenings in Halibut Cove, when we dozed off to the sound of rain pattering on the metal roof of the cottage and the occasional bleat of a goat in the pen up on the hill.

IF YOU GO

QUIET PLACE LODGE: Three-night, four-day packages are priced at $1,440 per person, double occupancy. It's an all-inclusive package, and it covers a lot: ferry ride over from Homer, return ride on the proprietors' private boat, all meals, wine and beer, dinner one evening at the Saltry Restaurant, wildlife and/or fishing cruises, water taxis to and from glacier hike, boat rides to and from Ismailof Island, and use of lodge kayaks and rowboats. www.quietplace.com; (907) 235-1800 (winter), (907) 296-2212 (summer).

OTHER LODGES: There are more than a dozen guest lodges situated across Kachemak Bay from the town of Homer. Among them: Halibut Cove Lodge, www.halibutcovelodge.com, (907) 235-6891; Hideaway Cove Wilderness Lodge www.hideawaycovelodge.com, (888) 777-0930; Sadie Cove Wilderness Lodge, www.sadiecove.com, (888) 283-7234; A Stillpoint in Halibut Cove, www.centerforcreativerenewal.com, (907)296-2283; and Tutka Bay Wilderness Lodge, www.tutkabaylodge.com, (800) 606-3909. For more options, visit the Web site for the Homer Chamber of Commerce, www.homeralaska.org, click on "Accommodations," and look for "Across Kachemak Bay" in the menu at the right.

DAY TRIPS: Central Charters provides twice-daily trips to Halibut Cove. Each is four hours in duration, with about 2 1/2 hours spent at the cove. The noon cruise allows time for lunch at the Saltry Restaurant, a stroll along the boardwalk for browsing at the art galleries, and possibly a short hike to the top of Ismailof Island. Fare is $50 for adults, $45 for seniors, $30 for children, and does not include lunch. The ferry returns to Homer at 4 p.m. The second trip is for those with dinner reservations at the Saltry, and departs at 5 p.m. (returning at 9 p.m.). Fare is $30 per person. Be advised that the ferry boat, the Danny J, has limited cabin space, with most passengers having to make the ride on open deck -- something to consider when the weather is stormy. Information: www.centralcharter.com/HalibutCove.htm. Reservations: (800) 478-7847 or (907) 235-7847.

KENAI ROAD TRIP REVEALS ALASKA'S GRANDEUR

KENAI, Alaska -- Lakes stretch away from the shoulder of the highway. Short hikes to river banks provide glimpses of salmon leaping from the rapids and landing with great splashes. Roadside overviews of the ocean take in active volcanoes, one of which regularly belches clouds of steam.

Desirous of having a poster-quality photo of Alaska? Just aim your camera at any of these sights while on a drive down Alaska's Kenai Peninsula.

You might even have a wildlife encounter -- closer than you wish, so stay alert. Signs all along the highway urge drivers to "Give moose a brake!" We were mildly disappointed that we didn't see any of the majestic creatures on the 220-mile drive from Anchorage to Homer, but we were also relieved that we didn't encounter any as road kill.

The Kenai Peninsula drive is often written about as if it's some road-trip idyll. It is far from that. Since this is the main commercial route for the residents of the peninsula, there is a lot of traffic on the two-lane road, much of it big trucks, as well as tourists in RVs. Driving among them can be a little precarious, especially when you throw in the local daredevils who pass when they probably shouldn't. On at least four occasions we had to pull onto the shoulder to make room for an oncoming vehicle in our lane.

But there are still many sights and stops that are well worth the trouble for those headed to Homer or the Kachemak Bay lodges beyond.

-- Directly south of Anchorage, the waters of Turnagain Arm are a beautiful sight, especially when framed by the Chugach Mountains, whose peaks are a dark gray as they stab above the timberline, punctuated with swatches of snow. The salt flats at the south end of the arm are the result of the land falling 12 feet in the 9.2 magnitude earthquake of 1964, and the river water here runs glacial gray-green.

Just beyond, the road knifes through the steep, green slopes of Turnagain Pass. Emphasis on steep. "It looks pretty now," said a Harley rider at a turnout, "but we lost two people in here a couple of years ago. They were on snow machines when there was a snow slide, and one of them they didn't find until the thaw."

-- A lot of the traffic continues south on Route 9 to the busy port of Seward, so conditions lighten up a bit for drivers who turn inland on the Sterling Highway, Route 1, toward Homer.

This road is cut through a forest that crowds in on both sides. At Cooper Landing, the highway skirts the long, finger-shaped Kenai Lake, with commanding views in both directions.

-- At about mile marker 58, watch for signs for the Skilak Lake Loop, a 19-mile route that ultimately rejoins the highway. But unless you want to shake a few teeth loose on this gravel road, you'll probably want to venture no farther than the Kenai River Trail turnout, just a half-mile from the highway.

It was here that we took a short hike past quaking aspens and wild berry brambles to the bank of the river, where salmon leapt out of the water every few seconds.

-- There are a lot of undistinguished towns on the peninsula, so strung out along the highway that you're not sure when you've reached the heart of them and when you're clear of them. All the more reason to take a little detour from Soldotna up to Kenai, which has a pleasant historical Russian core.

Alaska officially may have become U.S. territory with Seward's Folly in 1867, but the residents were slow to grasp it. Here are the Holy Assumption of the Virgin Mary Russian Orthodox Church (1894-5) and tiny Saint Nicholas Memorial (1906), both with onion-domed spires, and both built well after the purchase.

-- Convenient to the two churches is Veronica's Cafe, which you'll reach right about lunchtime. It serves sandwiches, quiches and ice tea -- opportune remedies for that highway drive. And it occupies a house of hand-hewn lumber built by farmer John Oskolkof about 1918. It's at 604 Peterson Way; (907) 283-2725.

Afterward, take a short walk to an overlook of Cook Inlet and the mouth of the Kenai River. (To reach Old Town Kenai from the main road, turn left at Main Street, then go right at the "Historical Buildings" sign.)

-- The Sterling Highway hugs the coastline the rest of the way to Homer, offering peek-a-boo views of Cook Inlet and the two active volcanoes across the way, Iliamna and Redoubt (we could never figure out which was which). Iliamna hasn't erupted in recorded history, but often emits clouds of steam. Redoubt erupted as recently as 1990.

-- Homer lies at the end of the road. To review our recent story on this quirky town, visit www.greatescapes.com, pull down the menu under "Destinations" and click on "United States."

MAKING THE MOST OF SHORT STAY IN ANCHORAGE

ANCHORAGE, Alaska -- For most Alaska visitors, Anchorage is little more than a holding tank. It's the place where cruise passengers, at the beginning or end of a voyage, kill a little time before heading to the dock or airport. It's the place where independent travelers fly in, linger briefly and jump in a rented vehicle to explore the state's wilder or more scenic reaches.

Though it is a bustling center of commerce, the city doesn't have a great deal to offer tourists. There is no picturesque waterfront -- for, despite the city's name, the harbor is a good distance off. Also, because of all those cruise-ship transients passing through here, the downtown area is thick with tacky "trading post" gift shops, so Grandma can grab something quickly before hopping on the coach.

But even if you're only in Anchorage for a short while, it has a few assets worth checking out.

Historical walking tour: This is a convenient way to stretch your legs and learn something of the town. It begins at the visitors' center at the corner of Fourth Avenue and F Street, and covers nine blocks. No need to track down a brochure; information panels erected along the route chronicle the Anchorage's colorful past, employing some wonderful old photos to do so.

One stop overlooks the site of Ship's Creek Anchorage (the town's original name), which was just a foul tent encampment before everyone moved up on the hill. Several others deal with the magnitude 9.2 earthquake that rocked Anchorage in 1964, and caused the city to drop 12 feet between Second and Third avenues. (Be sure to swing by the historic Fourth Avenue Theater to see some of the photos from the event, displayed in the front windows.) Other info panels chronicle Silk Stocking Row (use your imagination), Snob Hollow and other colorful neighborhoods from times past.

Bookish on Alaska: Title Wave Books is a downtown gem for browsers and shoppers -- you might even find a coffee table book that will make a much better gift than some of those trinkets for sale elsewhere. The store is a cavernous place that stays open well into the evenings. One of its strengths is a section on Alaska lore and history. 1360 N. Northern Lights Blvd., www.wavebooks.com, (907) 258-9283.

Bites to eat: Most restaurants in this state are content to slap a halibut or salmon filet on the grill and call it dinner -- and who can blame them, given the quality of the fresh catch? -- but the Asian-themed Ginger leans more to gourmet sensibilities, with crab hotcakes, clams steamed in sake, and satay skewers on the appetizer menu, and such dishes as a hot-and-sour seafood pot (clams, shrimp, mussels, seasonal fish) among the entrees. It's also friendly and unpretentious. 425 W. Fifth Ave., www.gingeralaska.com, (907) 929-3680. For more conventional fare -- and some excellent microbrews -- try the big, bustling Glacier Brewhouse. 737 W. Fifth Ave., www.glacierbrewhouse.com, (907) 274-2739.

Top of the morning: You'll need a proper breakfast before bolting for the airport, and one of the best in town can be had at Snow City Cafe. There are hearty scrambles and omelets among the egg dishes, classic pancakes and French toast from the griddle. Commendable espresso drinks, too. 1034 W. Fourth Ave., www.snowcitycafe.com, (907) 272-2489.

Room for the night: The Captain Cook Hotel, which takes up nearly an entire city block, has comfortable appointments and a little bit of character. Best of all, the windows of its rooms open to let in Alaska's invigorating air. Room rates from $150. Fourth Avenue and K Street, www.captaincook.com, (907) 276-6000.