CALISTOGA -- The route to Vincent Arroyo Winery wasn't nearly as convoluted as it might sound: over a wood-slat bridge that clattered beneath our tires, through the parking lot of the Home Plate Cafe, alongside a golf course, across a one-lane stone bridge built in 1904, and down a dirt lane flanked by leafy green grape vines.
The driver's annoyance was palpable. He was endeavoring to turn out of a driveway onto Wilshire Boulevard, and there was a tiny crease of opportunity in the unrelenting stream of traffic. But his bid was being foiled by the sudden presence of a rare, threatened species in Los Angeles: a pedestrian.
